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Water is forced into sand by the high pressure under a crest. Strong whirlpools loosen the sand. The sand is first at the bottom when a crest passes. More sand is pushed back to the sea.
Tile pressure changes in the sand bed are the most important factor in the creation of beach. The crest pushes water seaward. People take it for granted that waves carry water and sand to the beach. The high pressure under a crest forms strong whirlpools above the sand.
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Water is forced into sand by the high pressure under a crest. Strong whirlpools loosen the sand. The sand is first at the bottom when a crest passes. More sand is pushed back to the sea.
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Tile pressure changes in the sand bed are the most important factor in the creation of beach. The crest pushes water seaward. People take it for granted that waves carry water and sand to the beach. The high pressure under a crest forms strong whirlpools above the sand.
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